Bordeaux Primeurs 2019
An Unforgettable Vintage
It is, of course, impossible to ignore the 2019 primeurs campaign itself. Indeed, it did not escape anyone that this campaign could not take place under usual conditions! Aside from a few professional tasters (who can be counted on one hand), including Swiss wine critic Yves Beck – who, for extraordinary reasons, remained in Bordeaux throughout the lockdown – no one was on site to taste the wines. Therefore, samples had to be sent to us via express delivery so that we could talk to you about this 2019 Bordeaux primeurs campaign. What is certain is that, in our lifetime, no one will forget this vintage.
That said, it is quite unfortunate that the 2019 vintage is associated with this difficult period and these extraordinary circumstances: the weather conditions, although particular (we will go into detail), are quite similar to those observed in recent years, namely: a rather mild winter on average, an early spring already starting in February, and a very hot and dry summer. As winemakers say, we will have to get used to these new temperatures and adapt. This was done in Bordeaux in 2019, and the result is successful. In summary, the 2019 vintage is, quite homogeneously, a very good vintage, with a lot of freshness, a lot of fruit, and above all a lot of balance.
The year 2019 began with a rather cold and wet January, but February and March were completely out of the ordinary due to an unusual warmth and dryness for the season. The winter of 2019 actually resembled the last few winters, being generally milder and drier than usual (+35% sunshine and -70% rainfall). Budburst was therefore early, and vegetative growth took place in mid-March, uniformly throughout Bordeaux, one to two weeks earlier than in 2018. April suddenly slowed growth with falling temperatures and a night of frost in Gironde between April 12 and 13. A slight heterogeneity settled between appellations and estates. Flowering finally took place in early June, under wet (+37% rain) and cool weather (some days at 16-17°C). While temperatures had risen in May, they dropped again in June. Various appellations noted slight differences during flowering (some experienced coulure, while others did not), but overall, the conditions were relatively similar. Starting June 23, summer finally arrived, with peaks at 35°C on June 26 and 27. The grapes were able to develop perfectly despite the heat, thanks to water-saturated soils. During July, heavy thunderstorms were occasionally felt, only in certain areas, causing variations in soil and terroir humidity. Overall, July and August saw the clusters evolve well towards veraison, with just the right amount of hydric stress. This heterogeneity in the timing of vegetative growth cessation and the spread of veraison did not seem to have any significant consequences, and the various Bordeaux estates began harvesting calmly, with delays erased by a beautiful Indian summer. September was also very hot and dry (allowing the Merlots to reach full maturity), with rain finally arriving on the 20th, preventing any wilting. This delay in the first rains of September allowed the red grape clusters to achieve ideal coloration and tannins for an excellent vintage.
If we had to summarize the wines of the 2019 vintage compared to the ideal conditions of an exceptional year (fast and uniform flowering without hiccups, a hot and dry summer allowing for gradual water stress leading up to the halt of growth before veraison, regular maturation of the various grape varieties, and finally dry but not overly hot harvests, giving each plot time to ripen), it is clear that the 2019 Bordeaux primeurs follow each step quite closely, with a few bumps early on.
Regarding red wines, the Merlots, having already reached maturity by mid-September, retained firm and thick skins, rich in anthocyanins. They have slightly higher sugar content than 2018, along with power, especially on the right bank. On the left bank, the Cabernet Sauvignons, harvested right after the Merlots, reflect more of the vintage's freshness and a beautiful length in these grands crus. In the Graves, the color is quite dark, the nose is very expressive, full of black fruits with some spicy notes, and on the palate, there is fresh plum and cherry. They certainly have the potential to age well.
Regarding dry whites, harvesting was already done by the end of August in Pessac-Léognan and the Graves, to avoid too much hydric stress. With a nice balance between sugar and acidity, the Sauvignon Blancs were picked at perfect ripeness, followed shortly after by the Sémillons. Sparkling, they emit aromas of grapefruit, mango, and apricots. 2019 will be a great year for dry whites in Bordeaux!
The Sauternes saw the arrival of Botrytis delayed due to the dryness of the first half of September. The rains that followed allowed the noble rot to develop at the right time, and the slow start was compensated for by a rapid acceleration in concentration. That said, the harvest had to be done quickly to save production, and yields are quite low. But the result is harmonious and even indulgent. The finish is refreshing and not heavy.
The 2019 vintage will undoubtedly please. Balanced, racy, fresh, the 2019 primeurs are typical of Bordeaux, with some Châteaux rivaling the 2018s, but with less exuberance. According to Michel Roland, the vintage is successful, and this in a homogeneous way, with some fantastic surprises. Accessible in their early years, these wines now await only one thing: that market prices adjust to the global economic situation. As American critic James Suckling rightly points out: « It may seem superficial and surreal to talk about Bordeaux primeurs in the current conditions. Yet, whether in times of crisis or war, people have never stopped making, selling, and drinking wine ». And Hubert de Boüard responds: « This may be an opportunity for many people, if prices come down, to rediscover the magnificent wines of Bordeaux ».
The 2019 Bordeaux primeurs in the various appellations
On the Left Bank, first of all, in Margaux, it was a great success. However, there is heterogeneity due to the drier sandy-gravel soils, which had more difficulty. Some wines, such as Château Pouget, have a lot of fruit, freshness, and almost a creamy texture already. On the other hand, biodynamic properties, such as Château Palmer or Château Pontet-Canet, saw their yields seriously affected by mildew attacks, with a yield of only 11 hectoliters per hectare for the latter during the 2018 Bordeaux primeurs.
The Médoc North is rather homogeneous in terms of its limestone soils. The South was less fortunate, with hail on July 15 hitting some properties, destroying part of certain harvests. Château La Lagune lost its entire crop and will not produce wine in 2018.
In Pessac-Léognan, especially in Pessac, the hot areas suffered more than the cooler ones. Nevertheless, the Pessac-Léognan wines have a lot of balance, and the reds display a beautiful fruitiness and freshness that combine with elegance and length. For some estates, it is reminiscent of the 2010 Bordeaux primeurs. Domaine de Chevalier is again a great success in this vintage.
